2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse has developed into an elegant, polished Pauillac. Silky, aromatic and racy, the 2021 is seriously impressive. Graphite, lavender, spice, menthol and licorice meld into a core of dark blue/purplish fruit. In some recent years, the Réserve has been a big wine, maybe too big. In 2021, it’s a wine of unbelievable elegance. The winemaking team gave this a bit more new oak (70%) at the beginning of élevage—an unusual choice—then dialed it back to 60% for 12 months.