Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Bright, light yellow. Very rich, explosive aromas of exotic pineapple and honey lifted by pungent calcaire. Extremely rich and concentrated but classically dry and fine-grained, without an ounce of excess weight. A powerful expression of crushed-stone minerality, with its grapefruit and lemon cut accentuating the impression of inner-mouth tension and energy. Finishes extremely long, with a fine dusting of tannins and the strong lemony acidity drawing out the fruit. The pH here is a very low 3.0, according to managing director Brice de la Morandière. Just after the bottling, I described this wine’s pineapple and crushed-stone aromas as Riesling-like–at least compared to the estate’s Batard-Montrachet. A very strong vintage for this wine, and a spectacular start to the tasting. This Chevalier-Montrachet should be long-lived. (13.05% natural alcohol; the harvest at Domaine Leflaive began on September 14; overall production was reduced by half in 2012, owing to a long, difficult flowering with extensive coulure and millerandage_; at the time, then-winemaker Eric Remy noted that rot was the only problem that we didn’t have in 2012)