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Oregon Outside the Pinot Noir Box (Sep 2020)

Bright straw-yellow. Expressive pear nectar, white peach, tangerine, floral and anise qualities on the mineral-accented nose. Supple and expansive on the palate, offering pliant, subtly sweet citrus, orchard and tropical fruit flavors and hints of fennel and buttered toast. Conveys a suave blend of richness and vivacity and finishes minerally and very long, leaving poached…

Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Dark purple. An explosively perfumed bouquet evokes ripe dark berries, cola, incense and smoky minerals, and a suave floral topnote builds in the glass. Stains the palate with deeply concentrated black and blue fruit, violet pastille and spicecake flavors; juicy acidity provides back-end cut and lift. Espresso, licorice and dark fruit liqueur notes cling on…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Good deep red. Musky aromas of red fruits, mocha and earth. Sweet, saline and aromatic in the mouth, with rich, supple red fruit and soil flavors showing building intensity. The rising finish is rich and smooth but doesn’t show quite the class of the Chapelle.

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

One of the least expressive wines in this range, the 2012 Chambertin is quite closed today. Iron, dark/black fruit, spices and tobacco take shape in the glass, but ultimately it is the tannins and overall sense of structure that dominate. This large-scaled, broad 2012 is going to need quite a bit of time to fully…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2008)

Bright red. Seductively perfumed nose offers a complex bouquet of dried cherry, vanilla, cola, potpourri, smoky minerals and cedar. Silky red berry and cherry flavors are sweetened by vanilla bean and take on tannic structure with air. Becomes deeper and riper on the impressively long, sweet, lightly chewy finish, which strongly echoes the cherry and…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

The 1989 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a slightly diffuse nose that seems fully mature. It’s quite airy in style and lacks presence, which is not a trait that I associate with the de Vogüé. The palate has a grainy texture and thick boned-tannins evidencing maybe a touch of overextraction, and as a consequence…