Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(14.4% alcohol; 37.4 h/h): Amazingly vivid ruby-red color with only a hint of garnet at the rim. Explosive nose combines intensely minty notes with liqueur-like plum, blackberries macerated in alcohol, pine needles, sweet coffee and Oriental spices. This is a slightly more herbal bottle than the four others I have had before, all of which were alcoholic (but balanced) fruit bombs on the nose. Broad, lush and sweet in the mouth, with an exotic high-toned quality to the almost porty, very viscous flavors of dark berries, coffee, dark chocolate and vanilla. This verges on jammy but stays fresh thanks to sound acidity. The extremely long finish features a pronounced note of coffee grounds, very chewy but noble tannins and some residual sugar; in fact, this is downright port-like in its rich, round, alcoholic persistence. Undoubtedly a great wine, but I think it’s more emblematic of the hot 1947 vintage than of Cheval Blanc. I found this particular bottle a little less thrilling than the two I had most recently tasted, but readers may want to take note that this wine is considered by some critics as one of the three or four greatest red wines ever made anywhere.