Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1997 Climens is a wine that I have tasted three of four times, but it has never convinced me that it is a top-drawer offering. It has quite a powerful, rather mushroom-like bouquet with apricot and dried honey, though I would have liked a little more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied though never really “lifts off”, the finish just missing a bit of presence. A rare slipped catch from this estate? It would seem so.