Vinous Table: Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)

The 2005 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu from Comtes Lafon is superb. Having recently tasted the 2009, 2010 and 2011, I am curious to see where the 2005 is. Still a big, broad-shouldered wine, the 2005 is beautiful, open and expressive on this night. The wine’s breadth and pure power are both impressive. At the same time, slightly angular contours and drying tannins, especially on the finish, are impossible to escape. The 2005 remains a striking Santenots, but it is also a bit burly. I don’t see the 2005 ever becoming one of the more polished vintages, but would also like to taste it in another 5 years to see if it has acquired a measure of elegance that today is elusive.