2022 Bordeaux En Primeur: Balance Imbalance (May 2023)

The 2022 Tertre Rôteboeuf is surprisingly understated in this vintage, which is quite different from most years. In this warm, punishing dry vintage I expect to find a more opulent Tertre, but the wine instead remains light on its feet, with surprising minerality and tons of energy to play dark red (rather than black) fruit. The 2022 is pretty clenched today, but élevage should help soften some of the angularity in the contours. Tertre Rôteboeuf is once again one of the most distinctive wines in Saint-Émilion. There’s a feeling of raw, unbridled power that is impossible to miss. Yields were 35 hectoliters per hectare instead of the more typical 40-45 or so. As usual, there is no green harvest and the entire crop is bottled as the Grand Vin.