Domaine Dujac Clos Saint-Denis 1970-2004 (Mar 2020)

The 1990 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru did not quite match the stellar performance of the bottle at Tour d’Argent, although it came close. It certainly equaled that previous bottle on the nose, which is simply gorgeous, offering very pure red berry fruit that recalls Armand Rousseau in terms of ethereal purity and precision, and hints of orange blossom and bay leaf. There is something almost haunting about this bouquet that leaves you riveted to the spot. The palate… Well, the palate doesn’t quite “seal the deal” like the previous bottle. Why? Just because the warmth of the growing season seems to shape this bottle a little more, leaving it rounded and sensual, fleshy and almost corpulent on the savory finish, with Earl Grey on the aftertaste. It is still an utterly gorgeous Clos Saint-Denis, but from my own experience, there are superior bottles out there. Tasted at the Clos Saint-Denis vertical at Hide restaurant.