The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino (Jan 2023)

Like opening an old cedar treasure box, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva evolves in the glass with dusty sage, cloves, musky dried strawberries and crushed violets. Further swirling unlocks nuances of black tea, plum sauce and crushed rocks. This multifaceted beauty washes across the palate with finesse, silky and refined, peppering the senses with saline minerals and tart red berries that add grippy tension as savory spices swirl throughout, and brisk acids maintain a marvelously fresh persona. Edgy tannins are left to linger, revealing the Riserva’s still adolescent state, as a saturation of cranberry and hints of sour citrus slowly taper off. It took a full two hours for the 2012 to fully blossom, but once it did, it was pure magic. There are many years of positive evolution in store here for patient collectors.