Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur (April 2024)

The 2023 La Mission Haut-Brion is a dense, powerful wine. Firm tannins give the 2023 a feeling of sternness—a sense of classical austerity that is beguiling. This is the second-most tannic vintage for La Mission, only surpassed by 2010, so readers should plan on being patient. It will be interesting to see what élevage brings. At this stage, the 2023 is quite the bruiser. Hints of mocha, spice, new leather, crushed flowers and red-toned fruit linger.