Mád Idea: Royal Tokaji 1990-2013 (Jul 2019)

The 1992 Tokaji Betsek 5-Puttonyos has a relatively light burnished amber color compared to the 1993s tasted alongside. The nose is simple and a little austere for a Tokaji, but clean and delineated; a subtle resinous note filters through the dried honey and quince aromas. The fresh palate is marked by a very slight oxidative note. This is not a powerful Tokaji, but I appreciate the tension and vigor of this 1992 and the touch of spice enlivening the finish. Much better than I expected given the growing season. Tasted at the Royal Tokaji Company tasting in London.