2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

($1; 375) Medium-deep red. Utterly distinctive nose combines plum, redcurrant, beefsteak tomato, underbrush and grilled vegetables. Wonderfully silky and concentrated, without any rough edges. And yet this thick wine possesses terrific verve, purity and power. Expands inexorably in the middle palate and offers extraordinary building length on the aftertaste. The complex earthy/veggie element turns to rose petal with bottle age, notes de Villaine, adding that this cuvee is nearly always the highest in grape sugars and lowest in acidity among DRC’s crus. A splendid wine with a great future. I would not want to touch any of these 2001s for at least a decade.