Drouhin’s Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc: 1979-2016 (Feb 2019)

Pale yellow with a green tinge. More minerally and complex on the nose than the ’16, offering hints of iodine and wild herbs, along with a toasty nuance; a bit reduced, reticent and deep. Fat and ripe on the palate but surprisingly dry owing to lovely mineral-driven vinosity. The wine’s stone fruit flavors are in the deep background today and it’s distinctly deeper-pitched than the more floral 2016. Still, this very concentrated, layered wine manages to hide the heat of the vintage. Finishes pure and very long, with solid structure owing to its firm acid grip and a slightly phenolic note of grape skins. In this generally dry, warm growing season, the weather was brutally hot in July but the vines benefited from rainfall at just the right time in August, noted Véronique Drouhin. (The family begin harvesting during the first few days of September.) In fact, this wine is higher in acidity and lower in pH than the 2016 version and appears destined for a slow evolution in bottle. (22 h/h; 3.12 pH; 4.4 g/l acidity)