Staring Into The Heart of Sangiovese (Jun 2012)

The 1988 Cepparello needs time to open up in the glass. It is a huge, tannic wine, very much in the style of the year. Dark cherries, leather, licorice, mint, cedar and spices flesh out on a broad shouldered frame. This is the first vintage that was made entirely in French oak barriques, and some of the wood remains noticeable even though only 30% of the barrels were new. The 1988 won’t live forever, but it is striking today.