The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino (Jan 2023)

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino is in perfect form, slowly awakening in the glass with a delicate mix of savory spices, crushed flowers and dried strawberries. It’s round and supple on the palate with near-fleshy textures, yet also slow mounting grip, as tart wild berries and minerals penetrate deeply. Through it all, bright acidity maintains a wonderfully lifted feel, as a bitter twang of cherry pits and a hint of sour citrus add contrast through the lightly structured finale. The 2012 is delicate yet delicious, and just on the verge of its peak drinking window.