Barolo 2008: The Incredible Lightness of Being (Apr 2012)

The 2008 Barolo Brunate is gorgeous. An open, beguiling bouquet redolent of Christmas cake, plums, menthol and licorice melds into an expressive core of dark fruit. The mystery and allure of Brunate is on full display. The 2008 was quite open just after bottling, but it has begun to shut down since then. Both times I have tasted it, the wine has been translucent, weightless and yet powerful at the same time. In other words, the embodiment of what makes Barolo one of the most fascinating and complex wines in the world. Simply put, this is textbook Barolo from La Morra’s top vineyards. The 2008 Brunate is steeped in class, but readers will have to be patient.