Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc cropped at 17 hectoliters per hectare; 100% new oak) Glass-staining inky purple. Intense, heady aromas of dark plum, blackberry jam, candied violet and graphite are a bit too ripe for me. Big and creamy on entry, this boasts terrific palate presence to the luscious, very pure flavors of blackberry and plum complicated by subtler notes of cedar, graphite and ground coffee. The long finish features very good acidity, which nicely extends the ripe fruit and oak flavors. I love this wine’s pristine flavors, but this year I noticed its 14.5% alcohol. Clearly, though, it will have many admirers: those who like outsized, superrich wine will no doubt score this version of La Mondotte even higher than I do. The merlot was harvested on October 6 and the cabernet on October 13.