2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Glass-staining ruby. Expansive, highly perfumed aromas of cherry-cola, boysenberry, licorice, pipe tobacco and potpourri, with a bright mineral quality adding urgency. Seamless, palate-staining red and dark berry compote flavors pick up notes of spicecake and candied flowers with air. The finish is almost shockingly lithe, showing strong lift and a persistent floral quality. Sophie Estevenin told me that this wine clocks in at 17.2% alcohol; those who plan on driving home after a few glasses of this nectar have been warned.