Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon; 32 hl/ha; 14.5% alcohol; 65% new oak) Deep ruby-purple. Floral nose offers red cherry, plum, cinnamon and cloves beneath a healthy coating of sexy vanillin oak. Austere but not dry on entry, with plenty of lovely red berry, mint and tobacco flavors displaying amazing purity as well as admirable restraint. Though this is a typically tannic Pavie, the tannins are very smooth and the wine seems by far the best balanced of those in the Perse stable (especially compared to Pavie-Decesse, which showed aggressive tannins that overpowered that wine’s fruit). A more elegant, less massive and ultimately more enjoyable version of Pavie than some past vintages. For my money, this will be of the better Pavies of recent memory, a wine of real grace and refinement but with a broodingly masculine personality that lurks just beneath the surface.