Victoria: Cutting Edge Meets Classic (Mar 2024)

The tightly wound 2023 Pinot Noir Camp Hill, from a higher-altitude vineyard, is shy and reticent, with wild strawberry and cranberry aromas topped by a strong line of dried herbs and wintergreen. Acid-driven and a little angular, it has a soft underbelly. There is undeniable complexity, although overall it feels underpowered.