Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2017 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo shows its typical darkness and brooding character, but it is a bit light in body and structure. Time in the glass brigs out some of the wine’s natural breadth, but the 2017 is decidedly on the lighter side, as all these wines are. Dark plum, spice, smoke, licorice and tar begin to emerge, but they only do it with reluctance. The Sorì San Lorenzo signatures are present, and yet they aren’t fully expressed.