Looking Back at the 2005 & 2004 Brunellos (Oct 2016)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is just beginning to open up. The flavors remain bright, focused and vibrant, but the tannins are quite silky, which gives the wines an unusual level of accessibility. Still, the 2004 is a real baby. Readers who can wait will be rewarded with a magnificent Brunello. The 2004 has the freshness, acidity and overall structure to age effortlessly for decades. Tasted next to the Annata, the Riserva is darker, richer and more powerful. In time, though, I am not sure it will be meaningfully better or more complex.