Nature Rules/Nature’s Rules: DRC 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on September 25, and thanks to protective wax candles placed in the vineyard during frost, yields are almost the highest of the Domaine at 20hL/ha, over double that of La Tâche. It was bottled three months earlier than that cuvée on January 11. Ever so slightly lighter in color than La Tâche, it has a transparent, pure and slightly tertiary bouquet that side-by-side, does not quite possess the same complexity. With brambly red fruit, bay leaf and hints of Earl Grey (a common feature amongst the 2021s), it foments a subtle pressed flower element with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins not dissimilar to the La Tâche, maybe a bit more assertive towards the finish, converting that “constrained gravitas” I remarked upon out of barrel. Lovely raciness on the finish, real energy. Yet side-by-side, I aver that the La Tâche has a little more panache this year. 403 cases produced.