Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

Predictably, the 2021 La Tâche Grand Cru threatens to nonchalantly walk away with wine of a (difficult) vintage with a showstopping display from barrel. There are some years when La Tâche does not mess about. Not playing the audience, no toying, just a direct, penetrating, kaleidoscopic bouquet that verges on ineffable to describe. Amazing transparency and delineation, if the aromatics were music, it would be a harp soloist plucking strings in an empty cavernous hall. Ebullient red fruit, a hint of wild and dampish moorland emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins, heavenly balanced with tremendous length as it fans out without a care in the world. Breathtaking.