Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion can surpass even Haut-Brion these days, but on this occasion, juxtaposed against its sibling, it must accept a silver medal. That’s not to infer it is nothing less than a brilliant Pessac. Taking time to open, it has an elevated bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry, white pepper and a hint of licorice. The palate is powerful and dense, not as precise or as pixelated as the finest examples, yet fans out with joie-de-vivre on the finish and a tang of black olive on the aftertaste. Awesome. Tasted at Woo Cheong Tea House.