Sancerre’s Charm Offensive (Jul 2023)

The 2021 Les Chailloux is Riffault’s only Sancerre grown on flint soils – the rest is on limestone. And it evokes the scent of flint being struck. It is a cool, westish-facing site that doesn’t get morning sun, so it’s a taut, crisp, citrus style with gooseberry flavors and nettles. There’s a hint of nutty character from time in barrel on lees, which has also provided padding around its focused, light-bodied core. The conclusion is taut, brimming with laser-like acid and almost tannic: it’s a pocket rocket. The 2021 is a real terroir and vintage example.