Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Loups 1er Cru is the first vintage not to include fruit from the Grand Cru, as the vines have reached 22 years, so that is not blended into the Clos des Lambrays. It now includes fruit from Les Blanchard, La Riotte and Le Village (yes, the latter is a Premier Cru). This has a very perfumed, floral bouquet with crushed strawberry and wild cherry scents, potpourri and a hint of lavender – quite Vosne-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins. There is good depth here and fine complexity and salinity on the finish; this reconfigured Les Loups is worth seeking out.