Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.6% alcohol; from a crop level of just 22 hectoliters per hectare): Deep, bright red with ruby tones. Deeper and darker on the nose than the young 2016, offering hints of black raspberry, medicinal cherry, mocha and crushed rock; seems already to be closing down. Plump and thick in the style of the year; superripe but not at all cooked. The chewy flavors of dark fruits, stone, mocha and brown spices convey strong mineral-driven energy for the vintage, as well as the sheer dry extract to support the wine’s serious tannic clout. This hugely concentrated wine spreads out horizontally to saturate the palate on the powerful, slowly mounting finish, which leaves behind an impression of medicinal reserve. Winemaker Devauges is not convinced that this wine will shut down in bottle because of the quality of the grapes and the tannins, but I think it’s inevitable. He vinified with an average of 40% whole clusters in 2015 and did just three punchdowns during the course of three weeks of maceration. By the way, this wine has a slightly lower pH than the 2016: 3.6, vs. 3.7.