Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1983 La Mission Haut-Brion is a very solid follow-up to the 1982, albeit not quite in the same class. It has a seductive bouquet of brambly black fruit, Earl Grey and sous-bois and fern-like scents that unfold with aeration. As always with this wine, it shows fine delineation. The vigorous palate is well-defined, offering plenty of red and black fruit tinged with tobacco and black olive and culminating in a harmonious finish. This does not deliver the depth or the persistence of the previous vintage, but it’s just one of those bottles whose buvabilité catches you off guard. Tasted at the La Mission Haut Brion dinner at Amuse Bouche in Hong Kong.