Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

Christian Seely advised that magnums of the 1988 Pichon Baron are now far superior to bottles. Only one way to find out. Two magnums tasted and both completely vindicate Seely’s view. The bouquet is the personification of a mature Pauillac on the nose with graphite and cedar-infused black fruit. There’s a hint of cassis in the background. Impeccable provenance and format mean that it is fresher and more vibrant than bottled examples. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins. It is not as extravagant as the monumental 1989 or 1990, yet the Cabernet Sauvignon drives this along. Replete with a sensual smooth texture on the finish and a saline, almost briny aftertaste, this is irresistible. Tasted at the 1988 Bordeaux dinner at Noble Rot Mayfair.