A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Calon Segur is a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot. Though I have tasted most vintages of this estate since 1982, this was in fact the first time to taste this particular vintage. It has a rustic, slightly ferrous bouquet, dominated by black fruit, copper piping, damp loam and undergrowth. You perceive a higher percentage of Cabernet Franc than actually exists in the blend, nonetheless it is a charming old school Saint-Estèphe bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with melted tannin and a softer texture than I expected. There is quite a noticeable bell pepper component in situ, ferrous in style, earthy and what you might call “solid”. It fades a little towards the mushroom-tinged finish. Now at 30-years old, it is a wine that would show much better at the dinner table than on its own. Tasted at the château.