Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2005 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru, if that’s not good enough, was poured en magnum. It has a heavenly bouquet with intense red fruit: wild strawberry, morello cherry, freshly tilled loam and crushed stone. Crystalline. The palate is perfectly balanced with unerring structure and precision, perhaps in a larger format, more linear than expected, with beguiling mineralité on the finish. I couldn’t quite bring myself to award a perfect score…but I came close.