2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from three parcels, two up on the terraces on terre blanche soils and one on terre rouge_, from mainly 65-year-old vines and using 90% whole bunch. It has a crisp bouquet with touches of dark chocolate and tobacco infusing the black fruit, becoming earthier with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannins matched by a keen thread of acidity. This feels gentle and approachable for a Grand Cru, and quite focused, with a lilting finish. Fine.