A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 La Tour Haut-Brion is a vintage that I had never tasted. It probably remains under the shadow(s) of La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion, which might be unfair, because this is a very lovely Graves at 30 years of age. The bouquet offers scents of raspberry coulis, brown spices, warm gravel and rose petal notes, developing an almost Barolo-like allure with aeration. The palate is fully mature with gentle tannins, and slightly medicinal in style, delivering fine grip. It eases off the accelerator a little too early and could benefit from more substance in the final third, but otherwise this is drinking wonderfully. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at Hatched in London.