The Misunderstood Margaux: Marquis de Terme 1947-2021 (Oct 2024)

The 1998 Marquis de Terme has a bold and assertive nose with what feels like more new oak than preceding vintages. It’s a little brash and, as such, denuding it of the terroir expression displayed by the 1989. The palate is again rich and toasty with plush black cherry and blueberry fruit. It’s quite Napa in style, with lower acidity than I would expect with a satin-texture vintage that is just missing amplitude. Bottles will keep but will probably not go anywhere. Tasted at the Marquis de Terme vertical.