Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1998 Clos de Sarpe was the first vintage to use 100% new barrels (the previous vintage had been matured in 50% new oak and the remainder in tank). It is also the first year where the Grand Vin came exclusively from the older vines; the younger vines were from the deuxième vin. It has quite a high-toned bouquet with mulberry and blackcurrant fruit, peppermint and a touch of clove. This is far superior to the previous vintages that were aged in tank. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a little more roundness and certainly more generosity than the 1985 or 1990. This does not possess finesse or refinement, but the oak gives the wine cohesion that was missing up until this point. Bottles of perfect provenance will still give pleasure.