A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Haut-Brion has a decadent bouquet with a payload of glossy black fruit. There’s some warmth of alcohol here and just a touch of Brettanomyces. Yes, there is an element of the Northern Rhône. The palate has a sweet core of black fruit, plush with silky tannins and layers of blueberry and blackberry with an aniseed-tinged finish. It is a sensual wine, but at the end of the day, it does lack a bit of tension and pedigree. Tasted at the Académie du Vin dinner from ex-château magnum.