Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Full, bright yellow; swirls thicker than the ’11. Creamy-sweet pineappley nose suggests a rather low-acid wine. Delivers almost confectionery sweetness on entry, then large-scaled and opulent in the middle, with yellow fruit flavors verging on exotic. Today this wine is dominated by its ripe-vintage character and its plush wave of fruit, but the very long, resounding, chewy finish reveals a strong, even slightly edgy mineral underpinning that may yet take several more years to make itself felt. Ultimately quite dry and stony for all its honeyed richness and fat. From the start, then-cellarmaster Eric Remy described 2009 as an easy vintage–in direct contrast to 2008, which required multiple treatments against oidium in the vineyards and extensive use of the sorting table. (13.45% alcohol; 3.16 pH; the harvest began on September 5)