Vinous Table: The Ledbury, London, UK (Mar 2023)

The third in the trio ended a long-running saga that stretches back to the early days of my career. I have encountered the 1971 La Tâche Grand Cru on four occasions, and the bottle has either been corked or out of sorts each time. This reached its zenith at a vertical tasting/dinner where Aubert de Villaine joked that I would finally taste a sound bottle… He was as crestfallen as me when it was found slightly corked. The only quibble about this bottle was that the label had a tiny tear where the vintage was printed. Showing commensurate maturity in colour for a 51-year-old red Burgundy, the nose unfurls with melted red fruit, dry tobacco leaf, morels and freshly-tilled loam. With perfect delineation and focus, it is spellbinding in terms of its untrammeled Pinoté. The palate is perfectly balanced with red fruit, orange peel and a hint of spice on the finish. It is (again) that transparency, that paradoxical combination of intensity and weightlessness that leaves you lost for words. Ethereal.