In the Sweet Spot: 2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Mar 2021)

The bouquet in the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is both sweet and savory, showing masses of ripe cherries laced with autumnal spice, as a mix of sage and hints of rosemary develop. With a bit more time in the glass, a balsamic note keeps me coming back for more. It’s zesty, with brisk acidity front and center, ushering in citrus-tinged tart cherry and minerals, while teasing the senses with a layer of fine tannin, nearly masked by the Riserva’s unbridled energy and verve. This tapers off long and edgy, as notes of green melon combine with salty minerals and tart green apple-like acids that make the mouth water. There is no sign of decline here, in fact, it’s a wine that should continue to evolve for another decade or more. I do not expect such feminine beauty and energy in a mature bottle of Brunello Riserva, yet that is the message that the 2001 from Soldera communicates from start to finish. Tasted from a trusted collector's perfect cellar.