A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has been an inconsistent performer from bottle over the years. Retasting at the château at the 20-year stage, Nicolas Glumineau poured the wine at 9.30 am and then repoured the same bottle over dinner that same day. This proved how vital it is to afford the 2005s plenty of aeration, because the second was far superior. Vivacious red fruit fills out on what had initially appeared to be a rather atypically weak nose, accented by cedar and touches of wild mint. The palate is well balanced, fresh and cohesive with decent weight on the finish. Bottles have been variable over the years, and I have meted out criticism myself. But I cannot deny that after 12 hours, this Pauillac is perhaps showing its true mettle. Perhaps the fault was never the wine, but the eagerness of us tasters to pour scorn before it had a chance to open? Tasted at the château.