Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Light gold, with a slow mousse. Complex aromas of buttered nuts, brioche, honey, yellow peach and apricot seem evolved and open-knit. But this is surprisingly brisk on the palate, showing edgier, more citrus-driven pink grapefruit and lime flavors. The bitter citrus zest flavors are powerful and almost painfully concentrated. Displays the combination of richness and tart tones that is typical of this vintage. Clos du Mesnil has always been Krug’s single-vintage statement, but one has to wonder what could have been had Krug blended some ’96 or another lively vintage’s juice into this.