Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

Strangely, this is my first note on the 1990 Yquem, a vintage tasted many times. Now 35 years old, it has an enticing bouquet of wild honey, barley sugar, crème brûlée and figs that billows with aeration, certainly more opulent than the ’89 but quite irresistible. The palate is vibrant and poised, weighty with plenty of botrytised fruit. This has captivating purity of fruit and in recent years has gained a little more elegance, perhaps less bold than it used to be. Not quite at the level of the ’89, yet it appears to be improving with age. Tasted single blind at the 1990 Bordeaux dinner at Medlar.