Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Château Margaux has an absolutely sublime bouquet with gravel-tinged black fruit, pressed violet and black truffle, much more opulent than its peers or indeed other vintages yet suffused with grace. The palate is beautifully balanced with plenty of freshness and succulence, pure black fruit, a keen line of acidity and a very harmonious finish. There is just a touch of Earl Grey on the aftertaste – a stupendous Château Margaux that will continue drinking well for many years. Tasted single blind at the 1990 Bordeaux dinner at Medlar.