Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2010 Clos de Tart Grand Cru vies with the 2005 and 2009 as the best wine Sylvain Pitiot made during his tenure. It was picked from September 28 to October 6 at just 21hl/ha with 13.6° alcohol (no La Forge de Tart produced). The detailed, extraordinarily pure bouquet displays impressive focus. If anything, this appears to have intensified on the nose in recent years, presenting a mixture of red and black fruit, forest floor and just a touch of girolles. The palate is very well balanced, grippier than I recall in 2015, and quite saline and masculine. The demonstrative, assertive finish needs a little more grace. To be honest, I have found this wine more praiseworthy in the past, although it remains an impressive and forthright Clos de Tart. Tasted at a private Clos de Tart dinner in London.