Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Cheval Blanc flirts with perfection, this perhaps the best bottle that I have drunk. Incredible delineation on the nose, pixelated red fruit so vibrant and poised, with underlying hints of pencil box and forest floor. This just blossoms in the glass. The palate is very complex and refined, perfectly poised, layers of graphite-infused black fruit that impart a Médoc-like personality, yet few have this degree of decadence on the finish. It won over a table of hardnosed seasoned wine-lovers – just a brilliant Cheval Blanc at the very peak of its powers. Tasted single blind at the 1990 Bordeaux dinner at Medlar.