Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2009 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is poured from magnum by estate manager Jean-Luc Pepin. There’s light bricking on the rim. It has attractive red berry fruit on the nose, with leather, mulch and a light camphor note in the background. The palate is well-balanced with moderate depth. The secondary notes deliver light, meaty elements and white pepper. It is quintessential de Vogüé style from the Millet era, quite bold, not unattractive, though perhaps missing the élan of a truly great Bonnes-Mares. Tasted and The Fine Wine Experience’s La Paulée dinner at 1243 Club in Beaune.