Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2004 Brane-Cantenac is a delightful wine for the vintage and, as I wrote before, far superior to the previous one. Cropped at 59.4 hl/ha, this was one of the largest yields in living memory, refuting the idea that low yields equal better quality. The nose is very well defined with blackberry, raspberry and tobacco scents alongside succinct oak and undertones of rosemary and sage. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp blackcurrant and blueberry notes, not complex per se but balanced, with a dash of black pepper enlivening the finish. This 21-year-old Margaux is probably à point. Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château in September 2025.