2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

(25% new oak; I tasted a representative blend from new and old barrels): Bright, deep color. Wild, musky, ripe dark berries, black cherry and botanical herbs on the captivating nose. Dense and sappy, offering an exhilarating high-wire act of sweetness and acidity. Complex flavors of black raspberry, licorice and game birds. Seriously concentrated, expressive grand cru with great purity and round, mouth-saturating tannins. In its tension and fruit persistence, this is close to a 2010 in style; the same could be said for Rousseau’s Mazy-Chambertin and Clos de la Roche.