The Best New Wines From Spain (Sep 2005)

Medium red. Superripe aromas of plum and coconut, with notes of leather and tobacco. Fat, silky and sweet, with lovely depth of roasted redcurrant and plum flavor and a complicating, slightly funky leathery nuance; firm acids give the wine a penetrating quality. Finishes nutty and long. A classic old-style Rioja. I would pour this into a decanter and serve it straightaway. This struck me as somewhat less complex and gripping than the 1995 version, although importer Ordonez notes that the bodega had better corks in ’96.